Jack Johnson


Jack Johnson

Well, I've got one memory thats always been with me
My dad would get up to go surf about 4:30 or 5:00 and sometimes
I would hear him and go out in the living room and he'd be getting is board up
Out of the closet, like right in the dining room where he kept his board
And one day I remember the waves were really good
And um, it was really cool just getting up and going down there
It was off-shore
I remember just sitting there watching my dad surf and from that point on
I always kinda like... felt like a surfer, you know?
I always knew that I would definitely be surfing forever

Crédito: Hellin

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